March 10, 2010
Fashion illustration tips from Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design

Last December I attended a Fashion Illustration Short Course at Central Saint Martins in London, taught by an amazing professor and artist, Alexis Panayiotou
I’m not going to talk too much, but I’ll start giving you the amazing tips I’ve learned during the course. And, of course, I will urge you to attend one by yourself, because no advice or demonstration can replace experiencing on yourself.

Don’t consider wrong things that haven’t been defined by the industry as wrong… Even if so, stay open.
This is perhaps the biggest lesson I have learned during this course, give up fear while drawing and stop building imaginary barriers. Explore! Explore colors, media, tools for applying media. Explore moves of your hand, speeds, curves… There’s nothing wrong! Don’t even use a gum, unless you want to create the effect of a interrupted line. Try to make an illustration with such a state of mind and see the result.

I’ll further describe the first part of the exercises we have made during the course and I will give you some examples. More are to come, so stay tuned.

You’ll need a live model or models from magazines posing in different postures:

1. Enjoying the process of drawing
Take a piece of paper and a pencil or a marker, and draw. don’t lead your hand. Let your hand lead you. Intensify the moves and the marks you leave on paper form time to time. Imagine you draw a melody. The result is not important, only the process. The outcome of the exercise is that you have enjoyed the process.



Marker on paper

2. Deconstructing in geometrical figures
Make sure you have a live model and have it posing in different ways so as you can make fast sketches of her figure. Deconstruct the body in simple geometrical figures, but taking care at the proportions. If you don’t have a live model, look for models with different body positions in magazines. The time you make the sketches has to be limited. Start with 3 minutes per sketch and get to make them in 30 seconds in the end.


3. Negative drawing
While observing the figure, draw the negative spaces. That is the space between her hands and her body, the space between her legs, or the space between a part of her body and the ceiling, the floor, or another landmark. While drawing pay attention at the position of one negative space towards the others. In the end, your negative spaces will precisely describe your figure. Take 3 minutes for this drawing.

4. Blind drawing
Draw your model without taking even a glance at your paper. Be very attentive at every small curve of the model. Draw slowly. Never look at the paper. Take 4 or 5 minutes for this drawing. The outcome is not important, but catching every little element of the silhouette.



5. Combined drawing
This time combine blind drawing with drawing while looking at your paper. Use two different colors for each of the stages. It will help you if there would be someone who would tell you when to switch from one stage to another. You can also use a timer. Take 2 minutes for the first stage of blind drawing, then 1 minute for drawing while looking at your paper, 2 minutes again for the second stage of blind drawing and 1 more minute for completing your drawing while looking at the paper.


Pastel pencils on paper

6. Drawing the figure’s “spine” and being aware of its center of gravity
Use a brush and ink to draw the “spine” or the “thread’ that passes through the entire model’s body. It will describe the actual curves of the body that describe her position. Compare the position of the leg where her center of gravity is to the top of her head and draw it correspondingly so as your figure wouldn’t seem to have no equilibrium. After having traced the ink “spine” draw the actual silhouette using a pencil. Take 3-4 to perform this exercise.


Ink and pencil on paper

Remember that while performing all these exercises your attention should be mainly focused on your live or magazine model, not on your paper.

To be continued…

By Catalina Rusu

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March 2, 2010
Fashion is not just clothes…

…but an entire industry that you have to understand and fit in, in order to succeed as a fashion designer.

Here are two resources that allow any curious or new entry have a glance behind the curtains:

1. The September Issue is a new documentary film that takes viewers behind the scenes of Vogue Magazine as larger-than-life editor Anna Wintour and the staff prepare their largest annual issue, the September Issue.

2. Vogue Handbook is an Insider’s Guide to Careers in Fashion today.

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January 4, 2010
The creativity song or how to increase your creativity

You have possibly read about ways or techniques to increase your creativity. I did it, too. But this one, I have experienced myself recently so I decided to share it with you.

You know that sounds, color, smells, tastes, images are able to recall certain memories or states at human beings. So, while working in my class during the fashion drawing for beginners short course at Central Saint Martins in London, they put us several times this song.

After one week, I randomly heard the same song in a different scenery, but I suddenly felt a crazy will to start drawing. I felt a boost of creativity and a will to create.
The same can happen with any kind of set: smell, decor, color.

If you don’t have such a set that could boost your creativity due to previous experience, you can simply create one. If you want it to be a song, train your mind. While working listen for the same song several times. After a while listen again to the same song.

See what happens. Then enjoy your creativity boost!

By Catalina Rusu

November 16, 2009
Karl Lagerfeld - A Quick Sketch

iulias:

Awesome to see Karl drawing. He made my day!

Watch him:

November 10, 2009
CHANEL “The making of a couture outfit”

Every piece of haute couture clothing is the product of hours upon hours of manual labor.

Chanel gave on YouTube an exclusive video footage of its seamstresses turning a Karl Lagerfeld sketch into a finished dress and jacket with a five-figure price tag.

The three-part footage shows Madame Jacqueline, the atelier tailleur, working on the toile of the jacket; Madame Cécile, the atelier flou, goes over the toile of the dress to make sure it’s perfect. And then each sequin is painstakingly sewn on by hand at the Maison Lesage. Every inch of piping and each seam is hand-pinned.

Watch the entire process in the video.

Chanel Haute Couture fall winter 2009/2010.

by Iulia Stanescu

November 10, 2009
Behind the Makeup

Have you ever asked yourself how to apply make-up to look naturally?

This trend of being natural comes from the 1930’ when ladies of society liked to preserve the myth of being naturally beautiful.

For those who are interested in having a natural look like women in the 1930’s, I found interesting and I hope it will be useful for you too, a video tutorial on how to make up yourself to look naturally.

Hopefully, this video will help those who are aiming for a natural look.

Source: Fashion Era & YouTube

If it doesn’t work by yourself, or if you’re presenting your fashion collection and you’re searching for a make up artist for your models, you can get in touch with make up artist Diana Ionescu from Romania. Here you can visit her portfolio for more info.

By Iulia Stanescu

October 17, 2009
Fashion drawing for beginners

In this video, fashion designer and instructor Tu-Anh demonstrates the fastest and simplest techniques on how to draw fashion. This video series is designed for beginners and includes an overview of the basic supplies for drawing fashion, how to choose the fashion figure from a magazine, and transform it into a fashion figure and how to draw a dress on the figure

Enjoy!

How to draw the fashion figure

How to draw clothes on a fashion figure

Video sources: Monkeysee

Thanks to fashion designer Irina Marinescu for telling me this ” little secret”.

by Iulia Stanescu

October 13, 2009
Fashion Meets Tech: 10 Inventions To Change The Fashion Industry And Our Clothes.

When speaking about fashion we are used to approach themes like the history of costume, techniques of fashion drawing, sewing or pattern making, fresh existing or near future trends. We hardly approach themes like predicting medium or long term future trends, not to mention the scarcity of information on how would fashion look in the future if having interacted with other disciplines. Today we have a very special guest post from Yuli Ziv, co-Founder of My”It”Things. She forecasts a possible direction in which fashion might evolve if meeting tech.

Why would this matter to you, my dear readers? Well, I believe you are the future creators, connoisseurs and consumers of fashion, so you would like to be aware of the places we might get into with this fashion thing and jump on the wave.

I really enjoyed, Yuli’s forecasts and, after all, they might happen in quite a short term, taking into account the speed things develop nowadays. So, just imagine and join Yuli Ziv into her trip to the future of fashion:

“I spent the last week playing with futuristic thoughts on fashion and technology, triggered by the Singularity Summit which took place in NYC this past weekend and I followed live via Twitter. For those new to the concept, “The Singularity represents an “event horizon” in the predictability of human technological development past which present models of the future may cease to give reliable answers, following the creation of strong AI or the enhancement of human intelligence.”

Illustration by Anna Higgie

Afterwords, autumn/winter collection 2000 – 2001

According to Ray Kurzweil, one of the leading inventors of our times, the paradigm shift rate is now doubling every decade, and eventually the pace of technological change will be so rapid, its impact so deep, that human life will be irreversibly transformed. I found it would be interesting to apply the same logic scientists apply to the evolution of technology to the evolution of fashion inventions.

Compared to other industries fashion is still very low-tech, and is mostly relied on the inventions of the past centuries: the sewing machine, artificial dyes, zipper, etc. The only things that have changed during the last years are the shapes of our clothes and the processes in which they are made and sold. I will try to expand on these processes in another post, but this time I would like to focus on various technological inventions which I feel have the potential to create the Singularity moment for the fashion industry, and eventually change the way we consume and wear clothes:

Futuristic fabrics:

1. Color Changing Clothes - one of the latest inventions in the field of light emitting devices might change the way clothes are designed. Due to the fact that the organic light emitting devices are very thin and flexible, electronic display screens could be easily created on nearly every material, thus, for example, clothing could, for the first time in history, display specific electronic information. There are various ways of using the OLED, like for example change the color of clothes. Imagine what this could potentially mean for the trend forecasting companies who come up with the color palettes every season, designers who choose from those pallets and finally consumers who have a hard time to decide which colors to buy every season.

2. Wired Clothing - this isn’t completely new concept, mostly explored so far by sport apparel companies such as NIKE and Burton, and the health industry for monitoring heart rate, such as Sensatex SmartShirt. There is still a huge future for the “wearable computing” built directly into our clothing. Who knows, maybe in the future our clothes will automatically come with multiple USB outlets, just like our notebooks have today.

3. Body Temperature Balancing Clothes. Our body’s temperature naturally changes throughout the day so why shouldn’t our clothing?   Outlast Adaptive Comfort products are storing excess heat as it’s created and releasing it as it’s needed, so you can do whatever you are doing longer. Nano-Tex Coolest Comfort - gives you the freedom to move from hot to cold environments and still feel dry, all day long. Its advanced moisture wicking keeps you cool without changing the way your clothes feel. these inventions may potentially eliminate the need for seasonal clothing.

Futuristic Care:

4. Smart Cleaning - the laundry machines definitely made our lives easier, but still require special installation and access to water, not to mention the ruining of fabrics after multiple washes.  The Naturewash by Zhenpeng Li is a true futuristic laundry system. It’s a waterless washer that cleans nano-coated fabric clothes using negative ions. Imagine simply spreading your clothes on the machine surface to get rid of dirt, instead of today’s laundry process.

5. Instantly Dry Clothes - swimwear that dries itself instantly is not a dream anymore, thanks to Sun Dry Swim, which features quick dry nanotechnology enhanced swimwear fabric that sheds water as naturally as skin. It’s only a matter of time until this technology will make it into apparel making the rainy days much less wet, not to mention eliminating the need for driers.

6. Odor Preventing Fabrics - one of the reason for frequent clothes wash is the non-pleasant odors they catch. Japanese company Teijin is known for applying cutting edge technologies to textiles, develops a wide range of solutions, including the anti-bacterial odor preventing functions. Carnation Footcare has launched silver-lined socks it claims keep feet warm and smelling of roses. Pure silver, which coats the outside of the textile fibres, kills bacteria and neutralizes nasty odor-causing elements.

7. Stain Resistant Fabrics - there are plenty of stain removers on the market today, but what if the fabric itself wasn’t even able to catch stains? Nano-Tex, a leading fabric innovation company providing textile enhancements to the apparel market, recently rolled out the market’s best-performing stain repel-and-release treatment. The new solution threatens to eliminate the need for the most innovative stain remover.

8. Wrinkle Resistant Fabrics - who doesn’t like perfectly ironed crisp looking clothes? The process of ironing did improve our clothes appearance, but is tedious and doesn’t produce long lasting effect. A new technique allows the garments to be treated with the anti-wrinkle finish before the garment is dyed. This chemical treatment minimizes wrinkles and gives a smooth appearance to the fabrics. Hopefully, the day we say goodbye to the old heavy irons will be soon over.

Futuristic Wear:

9. Shape Changing Clothes - perhaps the Airplane dress” by Hussein Chalayan looked too futuristic, but the concept itself of shape changing clothes isn’t as far from our reality. Imagine a skirt that could change from A-line to pencil shape in a click of a button. The simplified version of this concept includes convertible garments such as dress that becomes a skirt, coat that becomes a jacket, two-sided garments - the opportunities for innovative multi-functional garments are endless.

10. Detachable Elements - another innovative way to use materials effectively is detachable elements of clothing and accessories. OneSole are an example of shoes with interchangeable tops, which could be attached to the same sole. Similar concept was also recently explored by the Uniform Project, where a black dress is worn with different accessories to create multi functional looks. Although this wasn’t an actual product, it’s only a matter of time until we’ll see a branded version of this concept.

11. Size Adjustable Clothes - a bonus idea, yet to be invented, but has the potential to change the fashion world as it solves the biggest problem in mass clothing manufacturing - the unique shape of each human body. Size adjustable shoes are today’s reality, although haven’t been hugely penetrated in the market. Imagine what size adjustable clothes could do - a fabric that is “learning” the curves of your body and adjusts accordingly, by that eliminating the need of multiple sizes. I wonder if any inventors out there are tackling the issue.

On a last note, these ideas might sounds too futuristic for mass market integration, but with the decreased costs of new technologies they will become standard in apparel industry in the next few years. Pressured by the economy fashion designers and brands are so busy these days thinking about the next season, while in fact they should be thinking about the next decade. If our clothes could be compared to computers, we are still wearing DOS…”

For more interesting info about fashion and not only, follow Yuli Ziv’s blog.

By Catalina Rusu

September 30, 2009
Fashion Illustration Media: iPhone Apps

It is probably one of the less known, talked or written about fashion illustration medias, but surely one of the most at hand and comfortable ones. I’m talking about the iPhone Apps.

When using it you won’t need a huge bag to carry sketchbooks, pencils, brushes, paints. All you need is a pocket for your little, fancy iPhone. And every time a brilliant idea or just a casual one occurs to you, take out your iPhone and start sketching or painting. Quite uncommon and so challenging. Only when you’ll try to make an illustration on your own, you’ll know why is it challenging.

Illustration made with Layers App by Catalina Rusu


It works somehow similar to softwares like Adobe Photoshop or Illustrator, but it’s much easier to use and more intuitive. You can draw with your finger or with a Pogo Stylus, a pen specially designed for iPhone drawing.
Here’s a list of iPhone Apps developed for sketching, painting or for processing your works afterwords, if you want to:

- Brushes2
- Layers
- Inspire
- Artists touch
- Photo fx
- Photogene
- Artisan
- 101 photoeffects
- Spinart
- Vihgo
- Eastern draw
- Jackson pollock
- Paintbook
- Mill colour
- No photo realistic painter
- Musophobia
- ZeusDraw
- Frame Muse
- Sketchbook

Now there’s one thing left to do! Upload the apps and start testing your digital art skills.

*Special thanks for contributing to this post to Patricio Villarroel, one of my favorite iPhone finger painters.

By Catalina Rusu

September 28, 2009
How does your fashion design studio look like?

The base of a career in fashion design is to have your own inspirational space for creation. It may be a specially designed studio in a separate building or a room in your own house. So, today I hope to give you a bit of help here with some tips.

What you will need to equip your personal atelier of creation?

A Tailor’s Dummy

It is extremely useful for a fashion designer. A tailor’s dummy may improve a lot the way you sew.  It helps you adjust or suit your material size range, enabling a perfect fit. Garments constructed with the aid of a mannequin will have that professionally made look.

Sewing Patterns

In sewing and in fashion design, sewing patterns represent an important step in making clothes. You can buy some classic patterns on Internet or you can find them inside fashion magazines that supply patterns. An excellent alternative is to create your own sewing patterns. Don’t worry for drawing patterns you don’t need to have artistic skills. Some techniques and imagination are enough.

Lovely fabrics

There is a lot of shops all over the world from where you can choose your favourite fabrics for creating your lovely clothes.

Your grandma’s Sewing Machine

Most sewing will require a sewing machine. You can purchase one on Internet or in a brick-and-mortar store and be a hard working student, and read carefully its manual. If you already have one, your old grandma’s sewing machine, don’t forget about the manual, if still at hand. It can provide a lot of useful information. If not, search the Google for the manual of your machine’s type.

In the process of clothes making you’ll also need a centimeter, sewing threads, scissors, a long table, tailor’s chalk, and pins.

Photo sources: Flickr

Then do it: take the fabric, cut it and switch on the sewing monster! No matter how complicated something may seem, the first step is already a step further.

By Iulia Stanescu

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